The best wines of the 1998 vintage: regional guides

The best wines of the 1998 vintage

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1998 Bordeaux Guide: 15/20

Weather conditions :

September brought plenty of rain to nourish the vines. The weather remained mild for most of September, allowing Pomerol and St. Emilion to be picked in exceptional conditions. However, by the time the châteaux on the right bank had finished harvesting their Merlot-dominated vineyards, most of the Médoc estates, with their Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated vineyards, had still not reached perfect ripeness. Different harvesting times are not normally a problem. The grapes in the Médoc are always picked after Pomerol and Saint-Emilion. But September ended with a torrential rainstorm that continued throughout the harvest. More than 3 inches of rain fell in the Médoc between September 26 and October 1. Clearly, Bordeaux wines in 1998Similar to 1964 and 1950, this was to be a year when Right Bank wines were destined to fly.

Best names :

The wines of Bordeaux are full of elegance, charm, opulence and concentration. They are round, rich and, at their best, express a flamboyant, fleshy style, combined with freshness and character. At 10 years of age, many wines are already starting to show their worth. However, the best Bordeaux wine of 1998 can still benefit from additional cellaring time, as it will continue to improve, gaining in complexity as it gains weight. In this vintage, I'm not as fond of the Médoc wines as I am of the Right Bank wines. Of course, there are exceptions: for example, Château Lafite Rothschild and Château Mouton Rothschild. The other Left Bank château also produced a fine Bordeaux wine in 1998. Pessac Léognan also had great success with his 1998 Bordeaux wine from top to bottom, starting with a magnificent Château Haut Brion. But make no mistake, the Bordeaux of 1998 belongs to the right bank.

1998 Bordeaux wine from Pomerol takes a slight lead over St. Emilion. That being said, Cheval Blanc Perhaps because of its proximity, being on the border with Pomerol is magnificent! But Pomerol wines are everything you'd hope for. They are rich, concentrated, ripe, pure, lush, opulent and offer hedonistic charms. Saint Emilion, while very good, is lighter and has not reached the same degree of ripeness as that found in Pomerol.

 

In Bordeaux 1998, we recommend :

• Château Cheval Blanc 1998
• Château Rieussec 1998
• Château Trotanoy 1998

 

Guide Bourgogne rouge de 1998: 15/20

Weather conditions :

Flowering was prolonged and the summer was hot and dry, even particularly sunny, with high temperatures in August. September was marked by rain, but there were ten days of fine weather between September 16 and 26. A rather irregular vintage, but exceptional for some estates!

Best names :

Unfortunately, not all the grapes were ripe by September 16 and some estates waited. Outbreaks of mildew and powdery mildew caused further problems, so strict selection was essential. Initial quality assessments were negative, but now that the wines are in bottle, it's becoming clear that, although uneven, 1998 can be excellent, with deep color and ample structure. The Côte de Beaune will be more consistent; the greatest wines are likely to come from the Côte de Nuits. Among the greats are Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Morey St Denis, Fixin, Vosne-Romanée and Gevrey-Chambertin.

In Burgundy 1998, we recommend :

• Volnay 1er cru En Champans 1998 - Monthelie-Douhairet-Porcheret

 

Guide Bourgogne blanc 1998: 15/20

Weather conditions :

Flowering was prolonged and the summer was hot and dry, even particularly sunny, with high temperatures in August. There was some frost and hail in the Mâconnais. September was marked by rain, but there were ten days of fine weather between September 16 and 26. Unfortunately, not all the grapes were ripe by September 16, and some estates waited. Outbreaks of mildew and powdery mildew caused further problems, so strict selection was essential.

Best names :

It was an exceptionally difficult vintage, so quality varies. Acidity is quite low, so the overall style is rather fat, but only the most concentrated wines will age well. Chassagne-Montrachet could be the most successful of the Côte d'Or appellations. Hail reduced yields in Chablis, but the wines from the best sites are rich and powerful.

 

Guide Rhône 1998: 18/20

Weather conditions :

A remarkable vintage in the Northern & Southern Rhône! An excellent vintage. A rather late frost and a long dry summer threatened drought in the north, but the September rains prevented ripening. There was dry weather from September 20 to 25, then no more rain. In the south, a short period of rain arrived before the harvest began in impeccable conditions. This long, hot summer produced wines with great ageing potential.

Best names :

The best appellations of the 1998 vintage are mainly in the southern Rhône. They include such elite names as Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas.

In the Rhône 1998 region, we recommend

• Clos des Papes 1998
• Châteauneuf-du-Pape 1998 in Magnum - Roger Sabon
• Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1998 - Clos de l'Oratoire des Papes
• Château Mont Redont 1998 - Châteauneuf du Pape
• Coudoulet de Beaucastel 1998

1998 Alsace Guide: 13/20

Weather conditions :

In Alsace, heavy rains in September after a fine summer. The winegrowers were patient, and the result was beautiful. May was dry and sunny. Sugar levels were high this year. This vintage favored the muscats, giving them great suppleness. The elite wines of Alsace in the 1998 vintage were the sylvaners and rieslings, which made the most of the '98 climate. Simple, well-balanced wines with superb aromatic purity.

 

1998 Champagne Guide: 13/20

Weather conditions :

The first rains and cool temperatures prevailed in July. Rot threatened but never really materialized. Then, during the first 10 days of August, a heat wave began to burn some of the grapes. In September, persistent torrential rains swelled the grapes to such a degree that excessive sugar dilution and loss of acidity seemed inevitable.
A return to sun and wind on September 15 allowed the ripening process to resume, and the vintage began in most regions shortly afterwards. Staggered picking helped growers select ripe fruit. Harvest quality and quantity exceeded expectations, with grapes showing good health, sugar and acid levels.

In Champagne 1998, we recommend :

• Dom Perignon rosé 1998