Champagne Jacquesson Dizy Corne Bautray 2004

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From the estate 

94/100 Parker

When to drink this wine? Can be drunk now. A great vintage of mature champagne.

Tasted by David Schildknecht in 2013: 'Jacquesson's 5,000 or so bottles of 2004 Extra Brut Dizy Corne Bautray come from vines (which were 44 years old at the time) located in the cool, breezy upper reaches of the eponymous site. This translates into a metaphorically fresh and relaxed wine that, to some tasters - and especially when first opened - may seem slightly distant. But there is a dazzling complexity here, as well as the impeccable balance - to near bone dryness - that characterises all the Jacquesson bottlings I have tasted recently. Scents of iris, apple seed, peach pit, quinine and toasted almond set the tone for the spiciness that follows on a heavily alkaline palate and loaded with a bittersweet, illusory floral perfume on the palate. Imagine chewing on a honeysuckle, and you'll get an idea of the effect. The impression of transparency is striking, and there's even more to glimpse after the wine has been open for a day, with roasted pumpkin seeds, lime peel, and an increased vibrancy of iris perfume. A hint of salinity stimulates the salivary glands in the long, interactively complex and downright provocative finish. This wine will only seduce you if you meet it more than halfway, and it's not about to shed its silky, mineral shroud. I think it will be worth following for more than a decade, though I must confess my ignorance of older examples of this bottling."

The estate tells you about it:

• Here we are on a sloping hillside terroir facing south-west, with a clay soil laden with millstone pebbles on Campanian chalk. There are 9,000 Chardonnay vines planted on 1 hectare in 1960; chablis pruning.
• Dosage: 0 gr/l
• Chardonnay vine planted in 1960 on the top of the hillside facing south-west.
• Vinification and ageing in tuns, unfiltered.
• 479 bottles and 30 magnums.
• Disgorged late in March 2021 after 16 years on lees. 

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