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Domaine Pattes Loup

Thomas Pico

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Thomas Pico started working on 2.5 hectares in 2005 and 2006 on the outskirts of Courgis, on the edge of the Chablis appellation, an area with perhaps more woodland and landscape diversity than much of the rest of this wine region. Thomas decided to go organic, unlike his father who was himself a Chablis winegrower, and eventually convinced his father (who then had 22 hectares) to go organic in 2007 (the family estate was certified in 2010).

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The cellar

Thomas says that Chardonnay is a grape variety that benefits from the tertiary aromas given off by malolactic. He says this wine has evolved and has a lot to say today. It was bottled with 20mg of free SO2, much of which has probably disappeared. Since 2008, he has been filtering the Chablis Villages, using a light filtration with white earth, the reason being that this cuvée is vinified in stainless steel tanks and you don't get clear wines in tanks as you can with barrels after a long ageing.

His Chablis 1er Cru is not filtered as he still gets good sedimentation after 18 months, especially as the wine is not moved or stirred. He doesn't like batonnage or stirring because it makes the wines too rich, plus when he did it when he worked for other estates, he clearly felt this mechanical action as a way of forcing something on the wine, he didn't like it, almost instinctively. He feels the same visual repulsion when he sees the grapes being violently picked by a combine, it's so violent compared to hand picking.