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Vouette et Sorbée

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Presentation of the estate

Throughout his long career, Gautherot has been first and foremost a farmer. The fact that the first thing he shows visitors is his cows, which he jokingly calls "his marketing department", says a lot about him. He keeps them both to cultivate biodiversity and as part of his commitment to natural viticulture. Bertrand's devotion to the terroir is deep; as he said to Peter Liem, "growing vines is my passion". This led him to the biodynamic certification of his estate in 1998. If so many of the great winegrowers of the Aube region cultivate their wines in a natural way today, it is largely thanks to the example of Gautherot. However, Bertrand finally considers these agricultural methods as a tool and not as a religion: "We don't drink a wine because it is biodynamic, we drink it because it is good". And Gautherot wines are not only good, but great: they are Champagnes of intense character, deep and complex, with unique aromas and flavors.

The terroir

The five-hectare Gautherot estate bears the name of its two main vineyards: Vouette on Kimmeridgian soil - fossilized marl loaded with oysters that it shares with Chablis - and Sorbée on Portlandian soil, also present in Chablis, higher up the slope. In addition to these two species are the Biaunes on Kimmeridgian marl from the neighboring village of Ville-sur-Arce. And since he is a dedicated grower, he has planted what he feels is best suited to each terroir : Vouette and Sorbée are all Pinot Noir, while Biaunes has both Pinot and Chardonnay. This makes his wines true Champagnes de Terroir, named after the fidelity with which he expresses his places of origin: the pure Pinot Noir of Vouette and Biaunes, and the Blanc d'Argile, his cuvée of Biaunes made entirely from Chardonnay. All Bertrand's wines are produced in a minimal way. The grapes are traditionally pressed in quarters, and any movement of the wine is due to gravity. Fermentation is done in barrels with indigenous yeasts, and there is no fining, filtration, cold stabilization or dosage, and very little sulfur. Before becoming Champagnes, they are fine wines. And their great originality has given them a cult status among those that reward wines with a singular personality.

The vintages

- The Sorbée plot is at the origin of one of the rarest Gautherot champagnes, the Saignée de Sorbée, a pure Pinot Noir rosé, fermented in whole bunches, with great depth, complexity and expression of the terroir.

- The most recent of the Gautherot vintages is Textures, a pure Pinot Blanc marketed for the first time from the 2013 vintage. Very unusual both in terms of its grape variety and its method, Bertrand vinifies and matures Textures in barrels and clay amphora for nine months, adding fresh grapes once primary fermentation is complete, for more richness and nuance. The result is a Champagne with a dimension, structure and, of course, a rich and rare texture.

- Then there are the rarest Vouette wines, the Extract and the Sobre. Peter Liem has found an excellent way to describe their production of 200 bottles: "virtually anecdotal". In other words, don't bother looking for them on the market.

- Extract is Bertrand's pure vintage Pinot Noir, which reaches an astonishing salty complexity thanks to its many years of maturing on lees. According to Liem, this cuvée of 200 bottles per release was originally "intended to be reserved for friends and family, but as of 2005, Gautherot has put small quantities on sale".

- Finally, Sobre is Bertrand's experience, which consists in making a champagne from pure Chardonnay only, without the addition of tirage liqueur, the secondary fermentation in the bottle being initiated by the natural sugars in the wine. The freshness and refined texture of the Sobre 2008 that Gautherot opened for us a few years ago is something we still think about today.

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